The Bittersweet Beauty of Discovery
A Sunshine Adventure Chasing Lavender Dreams. A journey through breathtaking landscapes, unexpected challenges and the grace of the good god.
For many years, I have read about the endless lavender plantations in Provence, a region in France.
I also once visited a village in France where people earned their living by making perfumes of various kinds - in bottles, small bottles, on cards, on cushions, and much more. And only a couple of years ago, I discovered that there are these plantations not only in Provence, but also in Italy. And not too far from Biella, where I live, it's just a few hours' trip. The most famous place among them is Sale San Giovanni, in the Langhe.
The Langhe, located in the direction of Liguria, is a hilly area renowned for its wines, including the highly prized Barolo and Barbaresco. The Langhe are also famous for their truffles, particularly the white truffle of Alba, which is considered one of the most prized in the world.
I have already been in Alba during the truffle fair and also at the wine tasting. But I have never seen the lavender plantations. That is why I went to Sale San Giovanni yesterday.
I left Biella by train at 7:13. I prefer to travel by train when possible. First, you don't get tired driving, then you take your walk without thinking that you still have to drive for hours on the way back, which is very dangerous. Finally, Italy is not very large; very often, finding a parking space becomes a problem that can waste half a day.
Researching the info before this trip (I never go out without it), I discovered that lavender is flowering late this year. So, the best period for a visit is the last week of June.
Then, the plantations were hit by a virus this year, and there will not be the usual fair (which didn't interest me, but if the fields are ruined, what's the point of going there?). However, lavender is present, as stated on the websites, and you can come and see it. Well, I was ready.
There are several equipped routes in this place (according to the websites), one of which is a short 5 km route. Since I still had to go home and didn't have much time, I calculated that the optimal return train for me left at 14:53, and this route (called the green line) was right for me, especially because it passed near the plantations and not through the woods.
My best advice to anyone who wants to come to Italy is, in any case, never believe what various sites or guides tell you. You should expect everything and more. Be ready.
From the station, according to Google Maps, you had to take a road with many hairpin bends; however, the hiking apps indicated that there are paths that go straight up to the starting point. Fantastic.
Control always what hiking apps say!
Problems started right away. I forgot my hat.
It was over 30 degrees Celsius, full sun. I have very white skin and can't stand the sun, despite living here for 30 years, and my skin is just much more resistant to solar rays. A better than before, but still, the sun is a tragedy for me.
Someone like me, to feel good in these times in Italy, should 1) stay home; 2) cover up as much as possible if you go out, using special fabrics that do not let the sun and heat pass through — heat stroke is perhaps worse than sun.
By the way, the best time to visit Italy is the second half of September and October. Even if the climate is no longer stable, there are no clear seasons as they were in the past.
So, I slowly started my climb under the sun.
Initially, there were still some trees. I had already said all the necessary swear words to myself (how can you forget your hat???????), to discover that from the castle, for another 5 km of climbing, there was not even a shadow of a tree or something where you could hide to catch your breath.
I was already half dead from the sun and the hit when I finally got to the much-desired lavender field.
I met many people (almost all foreigners) who were returning to where I came from. They were much cleverer since they began to walk early in the morning.
I, who had already done the promised 5 kilometers, thought that these people had done this loop on the other side. If only I knew HOW WRONG I was...
Those popular websites promised an easy 1.5-hour loop walk. And after seeing a lavender field, I continued my walk to finish that loop.
It was terrible. Sun, SUN, SUN…
By now, I was dragging myself from one shadow to another. Luckily, there were some trees near the road on this stretch. Finally, I sat down on the hot asphalt, unable to take another step. If I had continued any longer, the heat stroke would have killed me. I was only 2–3 kilometers away from the castle, but I was not able to move further.
And at that moment, I heard the sound of a car approaching! I stood up, signaled to stop, and they didn't stop.
In their place, in Biella, I probably wouldn't even stop, too... A stranger is a danger today...
I was about to collapse. It was the end.
But they changed their minds and came back. The good Lord was merciful to me. These guys took me straight to the station.
It was 2:52 PM.
In a minute, the train I wanted to take arrived!
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